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Violon d’Ingres is the French term for hobby... It is clear from
the food that Constant serves in his cool, small, elongated dining
room, with it’s details from Ingres in terra-cotta red on the walls,
that this is no mere hobby for him. His mastery becomes immediately
apparent with an amuse-gueule of thick, rich Jerusalem artichoke
soup enhanced with tiny butter-fried croutons and melting cubes
of foie gras, a dish at once rustic and opulent...
Sampling these and other typical Constant creations – from turbot
roasted with chestnuts and truffled celeriac to foie gras pan-fried
in a coating of gingerbread crumbs with quince preserves – I realize
that, however fresh his ideas are, they are firmly grounded in rural
French gastronomy. Constant’s cooking is elevated not by some promiscuous
“creativity” that mixes every flavor under the sun but by his obvious
understanding of classic raw materials and by the sure-handedness
of his technique.
SAVEUR View
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Violon d'Ingres on the rue Saint-Dominique in the 7th arrondissement
is everything I've been looking for in a classic French restauraunt.
Excitingly vivid flavors in a creative treatment of traditional
French cuisine. Very friendly staff. Quiet atmosphere in a long
narrow room that gives you a sense of intimacy and privacy. I love
this place.
NOTES & COMMENTS
On a short list of "Reasons to Visit Paris This Year," Le Violon
d'Ingres is right up there with the Eiffel Tower and Mona Lisa.
This elegant yet warmly welcoming restaurant is the baby of Christian
Constant, one of the city's most talented, most trend-setting chefs.
The simple chicken from the farms of Bresse is simply superb - plump,
tender, and served with sensational fried potatoes the crusty cloaked
sea bass with sweet almonds and tart capers play games with our
tongues. Desserts are no less dazzling: a buttery apricot cookie
topped with tangy Fromage blanc (white cheese) ice cream; puffy
pommes soufflés with hot chocolate sauce; and a bittersweet chocolate
tart that's the stuff dreams are made of. Come to think of it I'd
put Constant's sautéed scallops with endive and bitter orange ahead
of the Eiffel Tower on that list.
THE SAN DIEGO UNION
TRIBUNE
Chef Constant is a genius at delivering the purist of tastes in
his dishes. Scallops are served in a couple of ways, but the essence
of this mollusk is revealed in an appetizer cooked to a soft silky
perfection and framed in salt, butter, and parsley. Give this dish
an 11 on a scale of 1 - 10.
BONJOUR PARIS (Nov
2001) View
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