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"My dishes are based on the accents of South-West
France, from my village Montauban, with a modern spin. I'm always
experimenting in my kitchen, with my team. Just as I did in my mother’s
and grandmother’s kitchens since I was knee-high to the large wooden
table where we kneaded the dough and prepared the cassoulet",
explains Christian Constant. "My clients no longer want
to spend hours in a restaurant", he observes. And with this in mind
I've created "Le-Menu-Carte" with a choice of 5 starters:
6 mains and cheese or four desserts. Or, order a main-course and
a dessert or from the daily specials, 4 seasonal starters
and 4 mains. What ever your budget, we can work around
it. Vegetarians should call ahead and we still prepare take-away
for dinners at home, but these must be ordered in advance.
Some signature dishes such as Woodpigeon, cooked a la plancha with
fricassee of girolles mushrooms and sweet garlic feature, when in
season. Clients get so disappointed if I try to take their favourites
away", smiles Constant.
Q: So, Christian how can you continue to
offer such splendid dishes while cutting the prices in two?
Well, out goes the lobster which is very expensive, in it's place
I’m doing spider rock crab, fennel cream and herring caviar.
The service in the dining-room is more relaxed, we no
longer have a "bus-boy" to bring the food to table; it
comes direct from the kitchen, to table, served direct by the waiter.
We are no longer carving at table either. I am serving fresh vegetable
amuse bouches, say crispy radishes or new seasons olives, with warm
country bread and salty butter. Out goes the cheese board in comes
one perfect seasonal cheese from Cantin. And, although there are
no tablecloths, diners still get an outsize cotton napkin, to tuck
into their necks if they want!
Q: Christian, can you describe some of the
dishes that feature on the on the Daily Specials A La Carte menu?
They change frequently according to the market and the season,
of course. At present Stephane Schmidt and I are doing a frothy
Bisque soup of shrimp, with a light cream and herring caviar.
A Violon version of "Cesar" with sucrine and Batavia lettuces, slivers
of parmesan and crispy ham, and we’re carving Jambon
Bellotta "Patanegra" just outside the kitchen on a special board. That can be followed by a hearty Tete de Veau (veal's
head) with the tongue and brain poached and a sauce Gribiche (capers
and hard boiled eggs whisked into a mayonnaise). We’ve
kept the woodpigeon added a succulent rib of beef cooked
a la plancha with a gratin of macaroni and a wonderful
Lasagne and daube of beef cheeks with marrowbone. Succulent
stuff.
Light dishes that are not as traditional are on the Menu-Carte.
Say, spit-roast chicken from the Landes region. A delicious spit
roast turbot with baby potatoes and a mousseline sauce. Sea-Bass
from St. Malo crusty with almonds and a sauce ravigote with Sicilian
capers. My authentic Cassoulet Montalbanais or the classic Violon
pigs feet pie (andouillette) with a sauce made with segments from
the wine.
Q: Who is in the kitchen with you?
The décor may have changed but the equipe more or less stay
the same. Stephane Schmidt has been Chef de Cuisine at Violon since
2001. He has had experience at The Crillon when he was with me,
also at Alain Ducasse's Bastide de Moustiers, Christian Willer's
Palme d'Or, Cannes, Stéphane Raimbault's L'Oasis at La Napoule,
chez Westerman and Haeberlin and Alain Passard at Arpege.
Wines are very important and I appreciate the enthusiasm of Fabien
Richez, with us since 2003. Not only at the Violon cellars, Fabien
is responsible for choosing the wines at Café Constant. He
takes orders in the restaurant, the better to discuss the marriage
of the dishes with his discoveries, and he speaks very good English!
At present he recommends a white Menetou Salon, P. Clement, 2005
Madiran red Chateau de Peyros
1999 and the Cotes de Roussillon wines
from Domaine Cachau. "Very well made," says Fabien who has fine
wines in the cellar and to view on the wine wall at the entry to
the newly transformed restaurant.
At Café Constant (no reservations, so come early for lunch
and dinner) traditional brasserie food is served, at the bar, on
the ground and first floor. Choose from a long list written on an
antique blackboard. Prices are reasonable and won't break the bank.
Starters include Cream of Puy lentilles dotted with foie
gras, Oeufs Mimosa, Salade de Crudites, Terrines, etc. Mains include a Beef tartare, Penne with basil and tomatoes, Spanish
omelette, steak and chips. Desserts include all the favourites
such as Rice Pudding, Peach Melba, Profiterolles, Vacherin, Ile
Flottante, Ice creams or cheese. Kanterbrau and L'Abbaye de Florette
beers are on tap at the bar. Well chosen wines are by the glass,
half bottles and carafe. And, late in the afternoon
after lunch service at Le Violon d'Ingres, the Constants usually
eat here… but only you know that.
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