View more images   Les Fables de la Fontaine 131, rue Saint-Dominique, 7th T: 01 44 18 37 55 Lunch: 12 noon – 2.30pm Dinner: 19.15 – 23hrs Open every day Average price: 45€ including wine.

Fables de la Fontaine, is gradually being taken over by young chef Sebastian Gravé and the excellent David Bottreau, both formerly of Violon d’Ingres. “It’s sort of we love the place so much we bought it!” explain the new owners. “But Monsieur Constant will be keeping a watchful eye over us”, they add.

The small (22 covers) but perfectly formed fish bistro has a total new-look. So, there’s a new menu, new chef, and the warm, intimate atmosphere in the salle provided by David Bottreau. The architect designed décor showcases dark wood, orange banquettes, and Farrow & Ball’s “dining-room red” paint on the walls. While you are waiting, if you didn’t book, sip a glass of chilled Vranken champagne, at the raised bar (10€ a glass, 55€ the bottle), overlooking bustling rue Saint Dominique.

“Etre constant un jour, c’est être constant toujours” is written on the wall: this phrase is Monsieur Bottreau’s contribution, watch him glance up at it each time he glides through to the tiny spotless stainless steel kitchen.

Here you’ll find Bayonne born Gravé, who graduated from Ecole Hotelier, Biarritz. Gravé’s worked with the greats, including Joel Robuchon, with whom he launched JR in Macao, China. For the last two years this talented young maverick has been honing his skills with Christian Constant, next door, at Le Violon d’Ingres. Since January he’s been at the pianos of Fables, with just a dishwasher and a young trainee (from Ecole Paul Bocuse, Lyon). “I love every station in the kitchen, when I was 15 I worked 18 months in a patisserie, so I understand all the dishes from A-Z”, he explains.

So what’s on the blackboard to-day then?

Starters are 12€ and, according to market availability, include: Langoustine mayonnaise, 6 Oysters Special No. 4 (21€) Tuna carpaccio, drizzled with olive oil, Crab jelly with whipped tomato mayonnaise, Gaspacho with plump shrimps, Crispy langoustine and cod, hake à la ventreche, crème of asparagus. Main dishes at 22€ include braised Rascasse (scorpion fish) with potatoes and confit of tomatoes. Slice of lieu (Pollack) fricassee of asparagus with parmesan. Line caught sea-bass with parsley, roast Monkfish with herb butter en basquaise (25€). Desserts are 8€, hard to resist Gateau Basque, a cake filled with rich almond cream and fresh cherry jam. Or Cream Chantilly and Mango Rice Pudding. The wine blackboard suggests wines by the glass, carafe or bottle. It’s short and to the point: Excellent whites include Domaine Cachau Cotes de Rousillon (22.50€). The red Chinon Couly Dutheil is well balanced as is the rosé Domaine Cachau and the Chateau Haut Selves Graves (42€).

View more images of Fables de la Fontaine>>